Extreme Aging: Rotting Beef Commands Top Dollar

The Wall Street Journal: “The hottest menu item at New York restaurants may be a plate of rotting beef. Dining spots around town are offering steaks that have been aged anywhere from 90 to 180 days, pushing the limits well beyond the typical aging period of 21 to 45 days. Restaurateurs and chefs say the added time allows for greater tenderness and depth of flavor than the norm.” Billy Oliva, executive chef of Delmonico’s, describes it as “like the taste of roasted hazelnuts and dehydrated mushrooms.”

“The lower Manhattan restaurant is marking its 180th anniversary by offering a 180-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye, served on a keepsake plate, for $380. The special is offered through Oct. 14. The reason for the high cost? Beef that has been aged loses a considerable amount of its weight over time, Mr. Oliva explains, so diners are essentially paying for that shrinkage.”

“While beef that sits in a meat locker for months on end may sound like a dicey dietary proposition, food-safety experts say it is generally fine for consumption because of how the steak is prepared. Before cooking, chefs trim the exterior of the meat where any bacteria might grow, reducing the safety risk. And the cooking process itself adds another layer of protection … Which isn’t to say the flavor of the steak is one that every carnivore appreciates … ‘It’s like blue cheese on a bone,’ says Michael Lomonaco, chef and owner of Porter House Bar and Grill, a steakhouse in Midtown Manhattan’s Time Warner Center.”

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