LaCroix: The Essence of Effervescence

The Wall Street Journal: “The makers of LaCroix sparkling water go to great lengths to explain what isn’t used to create the beverage’s 20 flavors. There are no calories, no sugars, no artificial ingredients, no castoreum, no genetically modified organisms and no added phosphoric acid, according to the company. LaCroix nutritional labels contain only zeros. LaCroix is less forthcoming about what is actually inside its ubiquitous neon cans. The company says the flavors, such as peach-pear and pomme bayá, are derived from ‘natural essence oils’.”

“Essence is, essentially, the mystery behind a billion-dollar brand. As cases of LaCroix pile up to the ceiling of grocery stores across the U.S., die-hard fans admit they don’t have a clue what’s inside—and don’t care, either … Ask LaCroix executives for a definition of essence and you may receive something short of a clear response. ‘Essence is our picture word,’ LaCroix spokesman Rod Liddle said in a written response to questions.” He added: “Essence is—FEELINGS and Sensory Effects!”

“Essence isn’t defined in U.S. Food and Drug Administration regulations, an FDA spokeswoman said … Essence is created by heating at high temperatures the skin, rinds or broken down remnants of fruits or vegetables. Alcohol is sometimes added to the mixture. The vapors that rise off the stew are captured, condensed and eventually sold by the 55-gallon barrel … The LaCroix spokesman didn’t pour cold water on that interpretation, but wouldn’t provide cut-and-dried details of its manufacturing process.”

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